Just Like the Supra TT Rotor/Wilwood Caliper front brake kit, the Border Rear kit is not very hard to install but since the instructions are in Japanese, it does take some common sense.

Parts List; Here is what was included in MY Border rear brake kit:

Two 12.6”x0.75” Border Rear Rotors
Two Border Offset Caliper brackets
Four Nuts
Four Hub to Border Offset Bracket Allen head Bolts w/cut head
Four Border Offset Bracket to 95T Caliper Bracket Allen head bolt
Two Washers for the Border Offset Bracket to 95T Caliper Bracket Allen head bolts-(Note: I only got two of these washers, You are supposed to get four but I only needed two so it was no big deal)

Other things you’ll need:

If you have 91 calipers you will need to either buy two 95T rear calipers and caliper brackets or just buy the 95T caliper brackets as I did. The kit is designed to work with 95T rear calipers and caliper brackets. However, the 91 and 95 calipers are close enough in size that you can use the 91 calipers but you will not be able to use the 91 caliper brackets. The 91 and 95T caliper brackets are nowhere near the same size. Also, if anyone ever tries to tell you the 91-92 rear calipers are the same as the 93-99 rear calipers knock them upside the head. They aren’t the same. Neither are the corresponding caliper brackets. I encountered several problems related to misinformed parts dealers.

You will also need some new pads and Loc-Tite.

Installation;

Note: This installation assumes that you are using 91 calipers with 95T caliper brackets as I did. If you are using 95T calipers and brackets the install gets simpler. If you are upgrading to 95T from 91 you will have a few additional steps corresponding to the installation of new calipers.

1. The first thing you will need to do is jack up the rear of the car, put it on jack stands, and remove the wheels.

2. Next, you will need to remove the caliper from its bracket. Then hang the caliper from something that will keep the brake line from kinking or holding the weight of the caliper. I set mine on the rear traction rod.

3. Remove the old rotor.

4. Cut about 1 inch of material from the heat shield just above where the caliper bracket attaches to the hub. This is to make room for the Border Offset bracket. See pictures below.

5. Bend the heat shield back far enough to clear the Border rotor. You will need to test fit the rotor to make sure. Otherwise, the first time you take your car out you’ll be greeted by the sound of metal on metal as the heat shield rubs the rotor. You could just remove the heat shield but that requires more work and most people are too lazy to bother. Besides, the heat shield isolates the suspension from heat.

6. Now use a file, Dremel, or sanding drum to remove material from the area where the caliper bracket attaches to the hub. You will be sanding on the outside of the bolt hole towards the front of the car. This needs to be done so the Offset bracket to caliper bracket bolt will fit through the Offset bracket hole. Confused? You’ll understand when you test fit everything. See pictures below.

7. Now, place the Offset brackets on the hub and insert the Allen head bolts with the cut heads. The bolts should be installed from your side. These cut heads allow room for the caliper bracket to be installed. The Offset bracket should be installed so that the bracket is flush with the hub side that faces you.

8. Place some Loc-Tite on the bolts and then install the nuts. Make sure the cut portion of the head is oriented so that it faces the front of the car and thus clears the caliper bracket.

9. Place the rotor on the hub. Use some lug nuts to hold it in place.

10. Install the 95T caliper bracket. It should go between the Offset bracket and rotor. Thread the non-cut head Allen bolts into the Offset bracket from the opposite side. The head should face away from you. Remember to use a little Loc-Tite.

11. Grease the slider pins and re-install the calipers.

12. Install your brake pads.

13. Tighten the caliper bolts down.

14. Check for any leaks, loose bolts, or metal to metal contact.

Repeat this process on the other side. After that, you are ready to take a careful test drive. Listen for strange noises and check for leaks again. Once you are sure everything is going to work, begin the pad burnishing.

Observations, Testing, and Opinions;

The first thing I must say is that this kit is very well engineered. If you follow the correct installation steps everything fits together just as it should. All of the parts are very high quality. Border even takes the time to paint the rotor hub to prevent rust. It might be an odd purple color but hey, at least you won’t get nasty rust on the hat. My rotors came with a black cadium type coating that also prevents rust in the areas that can’t be painted such as the vanes. The brackets are anodized black and CNC machined.

The reason I chose this kit over other kits is that it allows for the use of the e-brake and I believe it provides better balance than having four piston calipers in the rear. I felt that with four piston calipers in the rear, bias would be too great in the rear and cause problems with trail-braking. Combined with my front Supra/Wilwood set-up, the bias is very good. No more front wheel lock-up at the slightest provocation. I really had some serious front bias issues when I was only using the Supra/Wilwood kit up front. Now, with the Border kit installed I can get on the brakes harder and sooner. The bias is definitely better now. Pedal feel has also been improved due to the stiffness of the bolts and Offset brackets.

Also, overall balance is improved. When I only had The Supra/Wilwood set-up installed the weight of the Supra rotors caused a little more understeer. Now, with the Border rotors, the unsprung weight percentages front to rear are closer to stock. Thus, the feel and balance has returned to normal.

I have used these brakes in autocross events and on the street. Neither of these types of driving require the use of such large brakes. However, I can honestly say that my 60-0 mph stopping distances have decreased. Stopping from greater speeds and in downhill situations has also improved. Fade is non-existent. These brakes will really make themselves worth while in road racing situations where repeated high speed stops would fry the stock brakes.

The downside to these brakes? Cost. They cost so much that I cannot recommend that anyone use them. For the price I paid for these brakes you could have a custom set of rotors and brackets made. Replacing these rotors with original Border parts is going to be insanely expensive. I also had to wait eight months to get these brakes. Border does not keep any parts in stock. When you order these brakes or a hood, Border makes that part to order. Because of this, it takes a very long time to get any thing from Border. It may not take eight months, but it sure as hell is not going take less than two months to get a part.

So, was it worth it? Yes, absolutely. I am the only person in the USA to have these brakes. That alone is something any MR2 owner would be proud to say. Being original in the MR2 community is getting harder and harder. Furthermore, these brakes work wonderfully. I have seen them used on many road racing SW20s in Japan and they are often featured in MR2 tuning magazines. I myself can attest to their effectiveness.

-John Pruner

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