First off, let me say that this install is not very hard but it can be time consuming and dirty work. You will be covered with brake fluid by the time it is done.

Preparation:

You will first need to get all of your parts together. Here is what you will need and the parts I used:

1 pair of Hux Brackets $150
2 Front KVR Slotted 93-97 Supra TT Rotors $130 each
1 set if Technafit SS Brake Lines $170
2 Wilwood Billet Dynalite Calipers Part #120-5006
1 Set of Hawk HPS Pads for the Dynalite Calipers $100 each
2 Bottles of Motul 600 RBF $12 each
Various bolts specified by Eric Hux for the brackets (8 total)>br> Loc-tite Thread Locker
Nuts to correctly space the bolt (4 total/optional)
Loc-tite Thread-Sealant (optional)
1 Sheet of Aluminum 1/16” thick (optional)

Notes: The Technafit lines are well made but over priced. If you are confident with your crimping abilities you can make your own for much cheaper. Also, you won’t be able to find the exact length bolt you will need to mount the brackets so you will either have to cut the bolts to length or use some nuts to space the bolts. You also might want to make a pad spacer using 1/16” AL because there will be about 1/16” of space between the pads and the rotors. Finally, I initially had some problems with leaking from the two upper caliper bleed fittings and the brake line caliper fitting. After talking to some Flyin’ Miata Big Brake owners it seems that the bleed valve leaks are normal and will go away in a few days but the caliper line fitting leak was not. So I used some thread-sealant on those two fittings and wallah! No more leaks.



2 Installation: Be sure not to get any brake fluid on your paint because it strips paint.

1. Jack the front of the car up, support it with jack stands and remove the wheels. Duh.

2. Put a bucket underneath the brakes. Hook up your bleed tube. Open the bleed valve and let as much of the fluid come out of the caliper as possible. Then close the valve.

3. Now, remove the brake line starting with the fitting on the body then the fitting on the caliper.

4. Remove the caliper.

5. Now that you have the caliper off you might be wondering how you are supposed to get the rotor off because it is not being held on by anything. Well, guess what, it is pressed on. You will have to get two bolts that screw into the rotor hat and press the rotor off or buy one of Toyota’s SSTs. A big rubber mallet works well too.

6. Now you will have to make a decision. Do you want to cut the dust shield off, do you want to just bend it back, or do you want to remove it?
Hmmm? Betcha 20 bucks that you will end up just bending it back. Get a pair of channel locks and bend the dust shield back until the Supra TT rotor fits on without scrapping the shield. You can tell your friends you left it on because it helps isolate the suspension from the heat of the brakes.

7. Install the new Supra TT rotor. Make sure you install each rotor on the correct side.

8. Install the Hux Racing brackets. This is where you might have to do some test fitting and cut the bolts down. Make sure to use Loc-tite thread locker on the bolts. Also, if the bracket rubs the rotor, you have it on wrong, flip it around. They are made to fit only one way.

9. Install the Wilwood calipers. Again, you might have to do some bolt trimming. Also use Loc-tite here.

10. Install the brake lines starting at the body fitting. Make sure you Reinstall the retaining clips. You really need to have these because without them the lines will rub the tire. That’s no good. I have always found them to be a real pain but just be patient with them and get them installed. Make sure there are no kinks in the brake line. Be careful not to over tighten the brass fittings.

11. Again, decision time. You can install the pads with or without the AL spacer plates. Install the pads and cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin.


There you go. Real simple, just repeat on the other side and move onto bleeding.

Bleeding:
To properly bleed the brakes you will need to start at the passenger side rear brake, go to the driver’s side rear brake, then to the passenger side front brake, and finally the driver’s side brake.

1. You will need to have a friend get in the car and pump the brake pedal until it becomes hard. Have that person keep pressure on the pedal and tell them not to remove their foot from the pedal.

2. With your bleed kit hooked up to the bleed valve, open the valve. Fluid will stream out. After it stops coming out, close the valve. Have your friend release pressure on the pedal. Repeat this process (build pedal pressure, open valve, fluid out, close valve, release pedal) until all of the old fluid is out and there are no visible bubbles in the fluid.

For the Wilwood Dynalites you only need to bleed the two upper fittings. Start at the outboard fitting and move to the inboard fitting.

Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of fluid during the bleeding process. The Dynalites pull a lot of fluid. Periodically check the MC to make sure it is not getting too low.


Final Inspection:

1. Now with the wheels off is the time to check for any leaks. If you find leaks, carefully tighten the fitting down until the leak stops.

2. When you are sure there are no more leaks, clean the rotor face and calipers with some brake cleaner or alcohol.

3. Put your wheels back on and make sure the calipers do not rub the wheel.
If they rub you will have to get a wheel spacer or sell your cool new brakes. Of course, you all know you have to have 17” wheels with this upgrade, right?

4. Now comes the break-in process. First, drive the car slowly to make sure nothing is going to come flying off. After you are sure everything is working properly you will need to burnish the pads.

5. To burnish the pads you need to do 8 medium stops from about 40 mph and then 8 hard stops from 60mph.


Observations and Opinions:

Before I tell you my opinions I will need to let all of you know what suspension and brake mods I had performed on my car prior to the Supra/Wilwood upgrade as they do affect brake performance.

17x7” wheels with 215/40 NT501s front and 235/40 NT450s rear.
H&R Springs with Tokico Illumina Struts
TRD Sway bars
TRD Strut Tower bars front and rear
Powerstop crossdrilled rotors front and rear
SMC SS brake lines
Axxis Metal Master pads front and rear
ATE Super Blue brake fluid

It is also important to note that I have removed about 60lbs from the front of my car and I have no ABS.

Upon first using the new brakes immediately after installation I noticed that the pedal was softer and moved farther then my previous set-up. Having done a previous brake upgrade I new that this was normal and that it should go away in a few days. However, I did notice that these affects were less than when I had done the previous brake upgrade. Meaning, in my last upgrade the pedal was softer and traveled farther immediately following installation then did the Supra/Wilwood upgrade. Based on this I assumed that once the pads were burnished and broken in that the new pedal feel would be vastly improved over my last upgrade.

My first drive with the new brakes was interesting. It was at 8:30 PM in 25 degree Fahrenheit weather. Needless to say, this initial run did not prove much other than the working order of the brakes and to do the low speed burinishing. The brakes felt more powerful and locked up easily but in the cold weather I couldn’t make any definite assumptions.

However, the next day was much more informative. This time I went out to do the high speed portion of the burnishing. I found myself a nice clear and straight bit of road and proceeded. I going and as soon as the needle hit 60mph I hit the brakes. The brakes initially locked up so I eased off of them. “Hmmm, seems like some front bias. I will have to remember that.”
Well, I didn’t remember that as well as I should. I didn’t think about the brakes getting up to working temp quickly and on the next few stops I found myself having to ease off of the brakes to prevent a large flat spot in my tire.

With my previous set-up I could get on the brakes hard and early without too much worry of lock-up. These on the other hand required a large amount of finesse.

After about four stops I became more adjusted to the quick response of the Wilwoods and lock-up went away. So I continued to do four more 0-60-0 runs.
This time I decided to do them all on a downhill bit of road to see how really powerful the Wilwoods were. Again, I was amazed. I could tell no difference between their performance on level ground and on this downhill slope. Also to be noted was the fact that I did these runs as back to back as I could manage only allowing time to turn around. By the eighth run the Hawk pads were just starting to get warmed up and work well. They were VERY far from being hot or overheating. The weather was cold but this is still impressive for a street pad.

Also, the pedal firmed up just as thought it would. The pedal requires less travel and less effort to create greater braking force then my previous set-up.

As time goes on I am becoming more used to the new brakes and lock-up has been resolved through finesse. There is no doubt that the brakes are now biased more to the front then stock. In the wet these brakes could be treacherous especially in a emergency stop situation. I do have 60lbs less weight up front but I don’t think it would matter a great deal in the wet. On the upside, pedal feel is improved far more than my previous set-up, there is little chance of brake fad with this set-up, and braking power is vastly improved. I have continued to test the new brakes and I have continued to be amazed at their power. However, this power may also be their weakness.

So, who should do an upgrade of this nature? Well, unless you are a road racer and plan to upgrade the rear brakes as well, then no one. There is no real reason to do such an upgrade. You will most likely do better with 93T brakes. The 93T brakes are more than adequate for the street. What about autocrossers you ask? Well, definitely no. These brakes will not get up to working temp quickly enough to be of use and the sheer size and weight of them is a problem. In low speed corners I can feel the centripetal force of the larger rotors fighting against me and trying to pull the wheels straight.

Why did I do this upgrade? Simple, I wanted the most powerful brakes that I could reasonably use. While there is no real reason to do such an upgrade except for road racing there is also no real reason to have 500bhp in MR2 but everyone still wants it. I also plan to upgrade the rear brakes so the bias problem will be solved by more than just finesse. They also provide so much more feel over the stock set-up. It is a vast difference. Fade is gone and the aesthetics are greatly improved. After installation I have noticed people staring at my brakes with awe. They know that brakes of this size must mean I get all the women. Then they look at the tiny back brakes and laugh.

Whether or not these brakes are for you I can’t answer. I have tried to be as honest as possible. I unfortunately don’t have any performance numbers but that will be taken care of soon. I plan to test these brakes against a 91T with upgraded but stock sized brakes. I think there has been a reduction in 60-0 distances but without testing I can’t say for sure. Here are the positives and negatives for this upgrade:

+'s Supra/Wilwood Brake--Power, Feel, Effort, Fade Resistance, Pad choices, Aethetics

-'s Supra Wilwood Brake-- Power, Bias, Weight

Photo Pic 1
Photo Pic 2
Photo Pic 3
Photo Pic 4
Photo Pic 5